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Historic temples designated as national treasures and important cultural properties

Tofukuji, 82, of Honolulu, a retired travel agent for Travel Ways, died last Thursday in Hale Nani Rehabilitation and Nursing Center. Born in Paia, Maui, she is survived by husband Shinobu; and sister Tsurue “Rose” Sera. Services: 6 p.m. Friday at Makiki Christian Church. Tōfuku-ji (東福寺) is a Buddhist temple in Higashiyama-ku in Kyoto, Japan.Tōfuku-ji takes its name from two temples in Nara, Tōdai-ji and Kōfuku-ji. It is one of the so-called Kyoto Gozan or 'five great Zen temples of Kyoto'.

“Tofukuji Temple” is known as the best spot for autumn leaves in the Kansai region as well as Kyoto. Especially during the fall foliage season, it is popular with tourists. The appeal of Tofukuji Temple is not only autumn leaves.
“Tofukuji Temple” was founded by Michiie KUJO, who was the “Kanpaku” (chief adviser to the Emperor) of the time, as a “Bodaiji” (family temple) of his grandfather Kanezane KUJO in 1236.
There are various buildings on the grounds, such as Sanmon, Hodo, Hojo and Buddhist temples, but most of them are historic temples designated as national treasures and important cultural properties.

Point!

It takes about 3 minutes from Kyoto Station to Tofukuji Station on the Japan Railway Nara Line. About 10 minutes walk from there. The Tofukuji Temple, the head temple of the Rinzai Tofukuji sect, is conveniently located just 15 minutes from Kyoto Station.

The name “Tofukuji Temple” is named after one letter from “Todaiji Temple” and “Kofukuji Temple” in Nara.

The season when Tofukuji Temple looks the most beautiful is probably the time of autumn leaves.
The view from Tsutenkyo Bridge, which connects the main hall and Kaizando Hall, is particularly famous. In autumn, many tourists form a line to see the view from Tsutenkyo Bridge at a glance.
In the precincts, you can see the scenery of about 2,000 maple weaves.
The scenery below the valley called Sengyokukan spreads underneath, and it is used for various historical drama and TV commercials.
The most famous bridge in Tofukuji Temple is Tsutenkyo Bridge, but there are several other bridges. The Sannobashigawa River runs through the grounds, and has three bridges, Gaunkyo Bridge, Tsutenkyo Bridge, and Engetsukyo Bridge. Together, these three bridges are known as the “Three Excellent Bridge of Tofukuji Temple Sanmei Bridge”. Among them, Engetsukyo Bridge is an important cultural property and is counted as one of the “Hundred Famous Bridges in Japan”. The wooden bridge corridor built in 1603 is a famous bridge with a long history and aesthetic beauty. Please cross each bridge and taste the difference.
“Honbo garden” is a representative work of Mirei SHIGEMORI. There are four gardens around Hojo (abbot’s quarters): east garden, west garden, south garden and north garden. In 2014, the original appearance was restored and the sand crest of the dry landscape was successfully reproduced, so it was registered as a nationally designated scenic spot.
Originally named “Hasso Garden”, it was changed to Tofukuji Honbo Garden when it was registered as a national scenic spot. Of the four gardens, the most famous are the large checkered west garden and the small checkered north garden. Tourists come from all over the world to represent Kyoto.

Charms and Highlights of Tofukuji Temple

“Honbo garden” consisting of four gardens

A typical sight in Kyoto is often Zen temple in fact. Kinkakuji, Ginkakuji, Nanzenji in Kodaiji, and Tofukuji are also Zen temple. What is the appeal of such Tofukuji Temple which acts not only on the historical and cultural values ​​of the buildings and garden, but also on the hearts of visitors?
Recently, the word “Zen” has become more and more familiar. Probably, you have opportunities to touch Zen in practical books and magazines that summarize the teachings of Zen, special features of the site, etc. Beyond the stoic image “Zazen Training” (meditation), there seems to be an increasing number of people who take Zen teaching into life and regard it as one of lifestyle.
Speaking of Tojukuji which is such a Zen temple, “Tsuten-kyo Bridge” and “Honbo garden”. The scenery from the “Tsuten-kyo Bridge” where more than 2,000 autumn leaves fill up in red and the garden which landscape gardener Mirei Shigemori handled are too famous. “Honbo garden” is in the building called “Hojo” (abbot’s quarters), originally a monk’s residence.
“Honbo garden” consisting of four gardens arranged in the east, west, north and south. As you cross from the Kuri (monks’ living quarters) to the hallway, the south garden will soon jump into your eyes. You will be amazed at the dynamic arrangement of megaliths and rocky stones. It brings a powerful life force to a quiet Zen garden by an unprecedented method.
In the temple of Tofukuji, there is “Sengyokukan” which is a valley crossing the east and west, three bridges of Gaun-kyo Bridge, Tsuten-kyo Bridge, Engetsu-kyo Bridge crossing over the river are bridged. Tsuten-kyo Bridge is a bridge connecting the main hall and “Kaisan-do Hall”, originally bridged so that the priests coming and going do not descend to the valley, but now it is famous as the best spot for autumn leaves.

The oldest temple in Japan

Daihonzan (Head Temples) “Tofukuji Temple” is the oldest temple in Japan, and is called the largest Buddhist monastery.
It’s only one stop from Kyoto Station, there is “Tofukuji Temple” which is famous for its autumn leaves. Many tourists come every year from the whole countryduring the fall foliage season.

The cultural properties more than 5,000

In addition, the beautiful garden of Karesansui (dry landscape of Japanese garden) spreads out around Hojo (head priest’s living quarters) of “Tofukuji Temple”. It harmonize with atmosphere of Kyoto well, the garden attracting all the beholders is very popular. It is a very noble temple, as possessing the cultural properties more than 5,000 assets,

The unique garden

Many famous gardens are seen in a Hojo of the Zen sect for a long time, the Hojo of Tofukuji Temple is unique, there are gardens on four sides. It is a Karesansui style garden made in 1939 by Mirei Shigemori. The garden of the south side expresses a rough sea of Hakkai (eight seas) by a ripple mark, and Shisen-jima (four islands) by a huge stone.

The moss temple of the rainbow

The Komyoin temple is said to be “Niji no Koke dera” (the moss temple of the rainbow) and has the garden which set a stone between the white sand and moss. This is a work of Mirei Shigemori who is the expert of the gardening of the Showa, too.

The maple more than 2,000 in full glory

The colored leaves of the maple more than 2,000 in full glory in the precincts are superb views. It is especially the famous spot of outstanding colored leaves in Kyoto. The best position to see the colored leaves of Tofukuji Temple is the Tsuten-kyo Bridge. The Tsuten-kyo Bridge, where you can enter by paying 600 yen as admission fee, is the most popular colored leaves spot in the Tofukuji Temple.

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Tofukuji Temple is one of Kyoto’s oldest and most famous temples, and very easy to get to as it is just one stop away from Kyoto Station on the JR Nara Line. This temple is renowned not only for its historical buildings, and the artistry of its gardens, but also for a deep ravine filled with maple trees that runs through the center of its grounds. In all seasons visitors can enjoy spectacular views here from the quaint wooden bridges that cross the ravine, but in the autumn when the maples are a blaze of red the sight is unforgettable.

History

Tofukuji Temple was first built in 1236 by the great statesman Kujo Michiie who, for the sake of his family prestige, wanted to build a major temple to rival the great temples of Nara: Todaiji and Kofukuji. In fact, the name Tofukuji was created from the “To” of Todaiji and the “fuku” of Kofukuji. The first abbot of the temple was the monk Enni Ben’en who had studied Zen meditation in China, but who viewed all forms of Buddhism as harmonious. In addition to Zen teachings, Enni Ben’en (1202–1280) is said to have brought back from China, Sung dynasty literature, udon noodles, and a variety of green tea now very popular in Shizuoka prefecture. For this reason his birthday is celebrated in Shizuoka City every November 1st as “Shizuoka Tea Day.”

An ink painting of the Tofukuji temple complex attributed to Sesshu Toyo (1420 – 1506)

Tofukuji’s original buildings were destroyed in a series of fires in the 14th century, but were all faithfully rebuilt according to the original plans. Another fire in 1881 destroyed the Buddha Hall which was never rebuilt, as well as the Main Hall and Abbot’s Quarters which were restored. However, several other buildings on the grounds have survived since the medieval era.

The Sanmon Gate

This Sanmon, or “enlightenment gate” is two stories and 22 meters high, with three entrances, and a gabled roof topped with ceramic tiles. Along with many other temple buildings, the gate was destroyed by fire several times, but the current structure dates from 1425. It is the largest and oldest Zen temple gate in Japan and so is a designated national treasure.

The Hondo

The Hondo

The Hondo, or Main Hall, is a recent structure dating from 1934, as the original was destroyed by the fire of 1881. Usually closed to the public, you can view from the outside the central statue of the historical Buddha shining on its altar. To celebrate the anniversary of the Buddha’s passing, the Hondo is opened to the public every year from the 14th – 16th of March. At this time a huge Muromachi era picture of the death of Buddha is displayed here. If you can visit at this time, this is also a good opportunity to view the dragon painting on the ceiling which was painted by the renowned modern artist, Domoto Insho.

The Hojo

The fee for entry to the Hojo, or Abbot’s Quarters, is 400 yen. This charge is definitely worth paying for a view of the gardens that surround this building.

After being destroyed by the fire of 1881, the Hojo was rebuilt in 1890. Its gardens however, were designed in 1939 by the legendary landscape architect Mirei Shigemori, who combined Zen aesthetics with a modernist sensibility. The gardens are now considered a masterpiece, but are one of Shigemori’s earlier works. At the time he was so happy to be given such a prestigious project that he offered to do the work for free. In return the abbot promised him that the monks of Tofukuji would pray for his soul “now and forever”.

The southern garden

On the south side of the Hojo is a traditional Zen garden with a sea of raked sand and rocks arranged to represent sacred mountains.

To the east there are cylindrical standing stones arranged to represent the constellation of the Big Dipper. These stones were originally the foundation pillars of the temple’s latrine.The abbot of the temple had specifically asked Shigemori to reuse various materials in his design, because according to Rinzai Zen beliefs, nothing should be allowed to go to waste.

The eastern garden

The garden to the north has a checkerboard pattern of square stones and moss. The stones used here are another recycled material having originally been paving stones for the entrance. From this garden you can view the maple filled ravine that runs through the temple grounds.

The western garden has another checkered pattern, but this time of moss, sand, and finely pruned azalea bushes which represent rice fields.

The western garden

Entry to the Hojo is 400 yen for adults and 300 yen for elementary and junior high school students.

The Kaisando & Tsutenkyo Bridge

Not far from the Hojo is a roofed wooden walkway that leads to a bridge over the ravine and then on to the Kaisando or Founder’s Hall. Like the Hojo, there is a 400 yen fee to gain entry here, but again it is definitely worth it for the chance to view and explore the maple filled ravine. The name of the Tsutenkyo bridge, can be translated as “bridge crossing heaven”.

Looking west toward the Gaunkyo bridge

The Founder’s Hall holds a statue of the temple’s first abbot, Enni Ben’en. Here you can enjoy another garden with a traditional arrangement of rocks, moss and bushes on one side of the path, and a raked sand checkerboard design on the other.

The Kaisando or Founder’s Hall

Entry to the Kaisando is 400 yen for adults and 300 yen for elementary and junior high school students.

Other Buildings

In the south west corner of the grounds you can find a long low building called the Tosu. This was formerly the temple toilet, and it is the oldest temple toilet in Japan. This building is usually closed, but you can peek in through the windows and view some pictorial displays representing monks using the building. Formerly this building was an important source of revenue for the temple, as the human waste gathered here was sold as agricultural manure.

A display image inside the Tosu

To the north of the Tosu is the Zendo which dates from 1347. This is Japan’s oldest and largest meditation hall and is a nationally designated cultural property.

There are two gates in the south west corner of the grounds which are also of historical importance. The west facing Chokushimon, is the Imperial Messenger’s Gate and as such, it is usually kept closed. This gate dates from 1594.

The Chokushimon

At right angles to the Chokushimon is the Rokuharamon Gate which before being moved to this location was the gate for the Rokuhara headquarters of the Kamakura government in Kyoto. The gate dates from the early part of the Kamakura period (1185–1333) and it is the oldest structure on the temple grounds.

When to Visit

Tofukuji Temple is very popular in the autumn, particularly in mid November when the maple leaves are at their most exuberant. Macbook applications free download. At this time however, the temple gets very crowded and there are very long queues to visit the Kaisando and Tsutenkyo Bridge. The maple leaves are spectacular in this season, but it is best to visit in the early morning to avoid the worst of the crowds.

A crowded Tsutenkyo Bridge in autumn

In other seasons the temple grounds are much quieter, and in spring and summer the view over the ravine resembles a sea of green.

Funda-in (Sesshuji)

A garden view

Though most of the 25 sub-temples surrounding Tofukuji are closed to the public, the quiet lanes between them are a pleasant area for strolling and there is no harm in having a quick peek in at the sub-temple gates. One sub-temple to the west of Tofukuji that you can visit is Funda-in. This is a quiet and peaceful spot with a garden originally designed by the famous landscape painter Sesshu Toyo (1420 1506). For this reason Funda-in is also known as Sesshuji. The current garden is a restoration by Mirei Shigemori and dates from 1939.

After exploring the grounds of Tofukuji, why not stop in at this smaller temple and enjoy the garden with a cup of green tea? It is a great way to relax. Entry to this temple is 300 yen and a cup of green tea and a sweet will cost you 600 yen.

Viewing the garden

Tofukuji Bonsai Pot

Location

Tofukuji is located south east of Kyoto Station and is very easy to get to. There are two railway stations which are right beside each other: JR Tofukuji Station and Keihan Tofukuji Station. If you are coming from Kyoto Station you can use the JR Nara Line and get off at the JR station. If you are traveling from the center of Kyoto city you will most probably use the Keihan Main Line and get off at the Keihan station. This is also a useful point for transferring between these two lines. Once out of the station, the way to Tofukuji Temple is clearly signposted and you should have no difficulty finding your way. Walking between the two stations and the temple should take no more than 10 minutes.

Opening Hours:

April – October: 9:00 – 16:00
November – early December: 8:30 – 16:00
Late December – March: 9:00 – 15:30

Entry to the temple grounds is free, but there is a 400 yen fee to enter the Hojo and the Kaisando.

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Article and original photos by Michael Lambe. All rights reserved.